Inspired by CYHA conquering the West Highland Way last year, Tae vowed to do it faster, higher and with more paddle boarding.
Day 1 Milngavie to Drymen (12 miles)
So this is it, just putting on my trail shoes. I've entrusted all my possessions and underwear to a brawny scot with a ginger beard, who tells me you'll smash it. I have remembered to put my washbag in my luggage, so I don't have to carry it all day. I turn my socks inside out because my 1000 mile socks have a hole in the big toe. I start thinking about Ben Lomond, the sleeper train and Caithness paper weights. Trail runners on and off I go. I nearly forget to stop at Drymen.
Day 2 Drymen to Rowardennan (14 miles)
This part was quite bleak, heavy fog. I give Conic Hill top a miss and drop down into Balmaha then on to the Rowardennan hotel. I have enough time to bag Ben Lomond, which I last climbed in 1997. Super hot, amazing views and a long way back down for a swim in Loch Lomond.
Day 3 Rowardennan to Inversnaid (8 miles)
After a spot of paddle boarding I’m back on the trail and overtaken by some serious runners. They do however return shortly afterwards, so I feel an endurance victory at least. I get to Inversnaid in under 2 hours and it's picture perfect: waterfall, Loch, sun.
Day 4 Inversnaid to Tyndrum (19 miles)
I set off at 8am, down into Inversnaid and along the path round Loch Lomond. The route around Loch Lomond to Inverarnan takes forever. I end up in Beinglas campsite and stare at a signpost that points all routes back the way I have just come. Luckily the site manager takes pity on me and shows me the way. I make good progress to the half way point, Crianlarich, before making my way into Tyndrum. I have been downgraded to a not so posh pod, but at least I get some cash back.
Day 5 Tyndrum to Kinlochleven (28 miles)
An early start after a strangely disturbed night, too hot then too cold and then hungry. I got up about 3am and ate scotch pancakes and fell back into a deep sleep. Today’s route was good, along the military path, and I made good headway into Bridge of Orchy. It was still misty and slightly chilly. I had been apprehensive about Rannoch Moor but I am pleasantly surprised by the Drovers road, no rocks to trip over so I can lope along at a decent rate. About half way I stop for a wild wee, thinking there was no one around. I barely have my shorts up before a mountain biker appeared. I tell the woman, I had just stopped for a wee, she laughs, and replies glad we didn't get that on gopro. Through Kingshouse and then I'm off up the devil's staircase. I was not prepared for the view at the top of the Mamores and Ben Nevis. I gasped and a man who was eating sandwiches agreed it’s worth the climb. I take a selfie, I don't think I have ever been this happy in my life. I also see a WhatsApp photo from the CYHA wishing me luck, which makes my day. And so begins the long slow descent into Kinlochleven.
Day 6 Kinlochleven to Fort William (15 miles)
I didn't get much sleep because there was a large family going between rooms, children crying and doors slamming till late. The route from Kinlochleven was just a super pleasant run, such peace in remoteness on the Lairig stretch. And then Ben Nevis came into view. I had a bit of a thing with a fast walker, who threatened to catch me up when I stopped to take photos. Then the long descent into Fort William with a coffee at the Glen Nevis Café en route.
A bath, a spa, a curry, another bath and another spa, before going up Ben Nevis tomorrow. Back at home, I start saving for Everest Base Camp.
Tae
Back in the Game
If Sheringham was a warm up, Slaidburn was the real deal - our first real YHA trip, post Covid. We were fortunate enough to hire the whole hostel, at frankly a bargain rate. We were then offered an additional night at half price – irresistible! So, here we were, a long weekend in the gorgeous moors and valleys of Lancashire.
Part of the reason for choosing Lancashire was the fact that it is a quiet area – all the scenery of the Yorkshire Dales, but none of the crowds. We started with Croasdale Fell and the Roman road – the fell was quite boggy, and the riverside path a bit of an ankle-breaker, so I can see why the Romans went for a road. More fells, reservoirs, quaint villages, local ice cream and cakes, even a chocolate shop on our doorstep. What more could you ask for?
Ali