Any trip to Scotland from Essex is going to be a long way, but I must admit that our trip by train in June was actually quite a nice way to do it. Good company, plenty of snacks and a book to read- plus, of course, very pleasing views out of the window.
The first leg took us to Glasgow and after a good night's sleep we started the holiday with a posh breakfast at the Willow tearooms. Designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the tearooms have been recently restored to their full 1903 grandeur. Eggs Benedict all round!
The next train ride, on the West Highland line, followed much of our walking route from the West Highland Way in 2020. Our hostel in Arisaig was lovely and just a stone’s throw from the pub, where we had a delicious evening meal.
We arrived in sunshine following our ferry crossing to Isle of Eigg, so the short walk to the bunkhouse was very enjoyable. Four different species of orchid spotted just in the road verges! Glebe Barn Bunkhouse was comfortable and spacious, with beautiful views across the bay. Not like a barn at all.
Next day, better than forecast weather led us to discard our plan for a warm-up walk to the coast for a full-on mountain adventure to conquer the Sgurr of Eigg. This is the most distinctive feature on Eigg, and can be seen from miles away. It’s a big lump of basalt thought to be the remains of an ancient pyroclastic flow from Skye. From the front it looks sheer and impenetrable, but from the back there is an easy scrambly route up. At the top you could see for miles: Rum, Skye, Knoydart and the mainland.
On the way down we diverted for the first of many visits to the excellent café by the pier. I may have to let my belt out a notch after this holiday!
Arriving later that day, Debbie & Steve missed the summit of the Sgurr, and they seemed to bring damp and misty weather with them. So Sunday we walked to an abandoned village near the coast and explored Massacre Cave. Judi enhanced the mood in the cave by letting out a blood curdling scream. We thought the MacLeods were back, but she’d just slipped over.
A day trip to the Isle of Muck saw the wettest weather. I’m not sure we got the best the island had to offer, but there was a dramatic medieval fort, coastal walking and another excellent café.
Better weather next morning saw us on a walk to Laig bay, and the scene of Ian’s downfall. It was wet under foot and Ian slipped, badly spraining his ankle. Helpful locals got him and Judi onto the ferry for an X-ray in Fort William. The rest of us continued to The Singing Sands and a cheery tea and cake at the Rest and Be Thankful tea garden.
Wednesday was my favourite day. We climbed up to the “Finger of God” (a rock pinnacle). Debbie and Steve left us to bag the Sgurr, but the rest continued along a dramatic curving ridge with spectacular views to Rum in the north and the Sgurr to the south. More tea and cake at the Rest and Be Thankful, then on to the Eigg Brewery taproom. Hic. Oh, and we got Judi and Ian back – am I allowed to mention the zimmer frame?
Then it was time to change islands, moving into the very nice bunkhouse on Rum. A bunch of us attempted to climb Hallival. It was very hot and humid, causing Judi to turn back halfway. The top part of Hallival is a mass of crumbly breccia with bands of large boulders. Whilst contemplating this we met Colin on the way down, having left Fergus to do the highest peak, Askival, on his own. Colin dozed off for a couple of hours while Dave and Steve scrambled to the top of Hallival and I chickened out. On the way down we diverted to bag Barkival for great views of the Rum caldera. Coming off Barkival, we bumped into Fergus, who had clearly survived the knife-edge ridges of Askival.
Saturday was another hot and sticky day. Fergus ran off to bag more big hills, but the mere mortals stuck to shorter walks and beaches. Lots of seals, a possible otter sighting, midges and horseflies only too plentiful. Sunny weather can’t last, but it was easier to leave Rum with the torrential rain chasing us away. Another fab trip.
Ali
