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SKYE’s THE LIMIT! Our annual pilgrimage to Scotland was this year directed to the beautiful Isle of Skye. We spent an absolutely fabulous week having lots of fun, and here is what we did: Friday It takes about all day to get to Edinburgh. The evening was spent with our old friends Jane and Adrian in their new palacial residence. Jane and Adrian have three daughters, although it seemed like a lot more as they didn't sit still for a minute. We all had a nice time down the pub, and even George managed to arrive on the friendly side of midnight. Saturday
The original plan was to take the ferry over to Armadale, but thanks to a two hour wait in the roadworks at Glen Coe we had to abort and head for the road bridge instead. This was a hard decision, painfully made over a chip butty in Nevis Sport. Dave and George were particularly gutted. We had left Edinburgh in torrential rain but the weather was now clear and sunny and would have been perfect for a boat trip. Sunday We naturally thought that the glorious weather couldn’t last so it was with some surprise that we woke up to blazing sunshine. We had the perfect breakfast on the hostel veranda overlooking the Inner Sound, all we needed was the perfect plan: a walk to the Point of Sleat! It was superb and deliciously rounded off with paddling in azure waters off a white sandy beach which could have put the Caribbean to shame. Needless to say one toe in the water reminded us of our latitude!
Next stop Portree Independent Hostel and our first chance to hear Tom and Dave’s tales of derring-do with their Cuillin guide. Monday Weather still pretty good so the Munro team went on a mission to the twin peaks of Blaven (a tale of navigational expertise). Robert demonstrated the grace and agility of Nijinski and also the thickness of his trousers in an unfortunate bone crunching tumble. With a stiff upper lip he managed to drag his bruised body back to the centre, spurred on by thoughts of Colin's chilli. Trudi was also risking certain death, this time on the Quirang. The wind was up and she nearly took off like a kite in a hurricane. George was also having trouble with wind (no, not due to Robert’s curry the night before) and got blown out on the Trotternish ridge. Tuesday Even windier! Last night’s chilli on top of Robert’s curry the night before was no match for the power of
the elements today! Wednesday Friday
Saturday Tim, Dave, Clive, Robert, Steve & Tom raced off to climb The Big Ben. Just the way to round off the perfect week you might think, but Ben Nevis is a dull plod even when you have a view. Three of the four thousand feet of climbing were done in thick mist. George and Dave P managed to fulfill their ambition to use the Armadale/Mallaig ferry as they travelled round to Glen Coe hostel. Glen Coe hostel also gave us the opportunity to end the week on several rounds in the infamous Clachaig Inn. This was provided you could fight your way to the bar. I had never been to the Clachaig before and I still don't know what it looks like as the walls and floors were covered in a heaving film of drunken campers! Sunday Real Men, Real Mountains! Dave J.: I am only now coming back down to earth after a wonderful week on the Isle of Skye. Tom and I decided, given the reputation of the Cuillin Hills to confuse those who try to climb them , to hire a guide . It was expensive but well worth it as we were able to conquer 11 of the 12 Munros on the island. The days were quite long - 6-9 hours- with minimal rest periods. The pace was not too demanding but the real challenge (and fun) was the scrambling/almost rock climbing ( once with ropes). Most days we would arrive at the foot of a towering rock massif, with seemingly un-climbable steep craggy slopes prompting the thought "how the f*** are we going to get up there?". But the guide would find a way to the summit via scrambling routes, following precarious paths round the edge of the mountain and by traversing some 'interesting' ridges with lovely sheer drops either side. There were many 'brown trouser' moments as the available space for hands and feet seemed alarmingly small in comparison to the surrounding abyss. The best view was on the Sunday -a clear day- from the Munro summits of the entire Cuillin ridge. To the west the Outer Hebrides were strung out along the horizon and the Inner isles of Mull (Ben More), Muck, Rhum, Coll, Tiree and maybe Islay. To the east the mountainous mainland stretched out as far as the eye could see. Later on in the week on the ascent of Basteir the jagged outcrop of the Tooth suddenly loomed into view out of the mists thrusting straight up into the clouds. Its sheer size and odd shape in the eerie mists was awe inspiring. After the abandoned attempt on the Inaccessible Pinnacle we had no option but to buy stacks of alcohol, firstly at the Tallisker distillery and then at Uig where the Skye beer is brewed. A plod up and down Ben Nevis with a million others, most wearing trainers and shorts (one of whom asked us if there was a restaurant on the summit), was followed by an all too brief visit to the Clachaig Inn for well earned ale and whisky. I now cannot wait for the next opportunity to bag more Munros. I seem to have caught the bug!
Tom: Day one: Wonderful views of most of the ridge, Island of Rhum and Outer Hebrides. Most spectacular section Sgurr Alasdair to Mhic Choinnich with some exposed and difficult scrambling. Including Moderate rock-climbing Thearlaich to Mhic Choinnich regarded by some of the most difficult section of the Cuillin ridge. Coire Laggan, Britain's most dramatic rock scenery. Quotes: "Tom there's tension in those eyes" (Guide)
"That's not the only place there's tension" as we were about to tackle Collie's ledge on Mhic Choinnich. I was more fired up and loving every minute of it. Day two: Rather more cloud, a little mist but spectacular views down Loch Coruisk from Mhadaidh. A very narrow as airy traverse from South Top to Thormaid. Day three: Views from summit of Blaven across Glen Sligachan to Sgurr nan Gillean. Day four: Rest day. Wonderful outing on The Storr in lovely weather. Day five: Rather misty with spots of rain. Spectacular view from the airy summit of Am Basteir Rock-climbing rather "Diff" on Bhasteir Chimney leading to Sgurr nan Gillean. It was such a pity that the weather prevented the ascent of the Inaccessible Pinnacle on the last day as the grand finale of the Skye Munros but I was delighted with 11 summits with a view from 7 of them. I no longer regard the Cuillin as an obstacle to finishing the Munros except that I've got to return to Skye for one more summit, Bummer! I said to Graham (or guide): "Those who don't hill walk might regard us 'baggers' as anoraks, some who are feel jealous. " His response to that was: " Doing the Munros is just an excuse for getting into the hills and it keeps me in a job". That week convinced me of why I'm attempting to climb all Britain's 3000' summits. Sunday - Munros (bold) and tops. Sgurr na Eag Sgurr Dubh Mor Sgurr Dubh Da Bheinn Sgurr Sgumain Sgurr Alasdair Sgurr Thearlaich Sgurr Mhic Choinnich Monday Sgurr a' Mhadaidh Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh South Top Sgurr Thormaid Sgurr na Banachdich Central top Tuesday Blaven South Top Thursday Sgurr a Fionn Choire Bruach na Frithe Am Basteir Sgurr nan Gillean Midsummer Hike. Another highly successful event. Teaming up with Harlow YHA Group we managed to gather 22 walkers for this lovely evening stroll around Ongar. There was much chatting and plenty of sneezing, but we still managed to complete the whole 5 miles and get to the pub by 10pm! Well-earned beers all round. Many thanks to Robin of Harlow Group for organising it. Summer in the Garden Many thanks to the 15 volunteers who turned up to help in the garden of Saffron Walden Youth Hostel. There was plenty to do as many of the weeds had shot up since our last visit. It took 2 or 3 trips to the dump to get rid of all the garden waste. Sadly it was also farewell to Suzanne, the hostel manager, who is moving on to pastures new at the end of June. To thank us for our hard work she treated us to glasses of Pimms & lemonade on the lawn and wished us luck with the rest of the project. See also news and pictures of our project to transform the garden at Saffron Walden Youth Hostel
Cycling in the Suffolk Sunshine
We gathered on a brilliant sunny Saturday morning at the hostel in the small Suffolk village of Blaxhall; six mountain bikes were joined by Ann’s little folding bike and Lorna’s ancient indestructible rust-machine. Andrew led us through picturesque lanes to the sea at Shingle Street. The highlight of the day was the ferry across the river - we turned up expecting one of the larger boats to be the ferry, but a man in a tiny rowing boat came to get us, seeming too small for even one bike, let alone seven of us. But he managed it in only three trips, and our fears that he’d sink under the tower of bicycles precariously balanced on the boat were unfounded. We arrived for a late lunch/pub/ice cream stop in Orford, except Ann who we’d brutally abandoned with her bike sinking in the sand. After a meal of curried leftovers from the food crate, we headed for the pub - all except, to our amazement, Chris who was desperate for a good night’s sleep - that’s what fatherhood can do to even the most hardened drinker. Highlights of Sunday included Thorpeness with its boating lake, windmill and "House in the Clouds" water tower, and Chris, the cycling lobster (insufficient sun cream). A splendid weekend, rounded off by tea and cakes at Snape Maltings. |
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