CYHA NEWS

Jane's Round-the-World Tour

I did the journey from Barcelona to Madrid by train. I wouldn't recommend it - certainly not one of the greatest train journeys in the world, but I met some nice people to chat to! Madrid was just fantastic. It is incredibly cheap there at the moment - you could get a decent small hotel for just 25 for a double room - and food and drink were dirt cheap. The Prado Museum there was fantastic. You got to the point of 'not another Raphael/Titian/Rubens/Goya' as the collection was vast. It was such an 'alive' place - amazing.

Then I travelled over to the US. It was a convoluted route, via Miami, Dallas Fort Worth, and finally Ontario Airport outside of LA. I met some people on the Miami - Dallas flight, and am going to spend a couple of days with them on my way up to Canada, as they conveniently live half way between my last stop in northern California and Seattle, in Salem in Oregon. I spent 10 days with my old penfriend that I've had for 27 years. I last saw her 20 years ago - we both look pretty much the same. We had great fun. We went to the Colarado River, and went on a wave runner. That was huge fun - I kind of enhanced jetski - took a lot of strength for me to drive the thing, it really had some power. I only managed to hang on at 35 mph, but went on the back with others and got up to 60 mph which was pretty scarey. The thing stopped and turned on a sixpence once you took the throttle away, and it was very easy to just go flying! Friends had a speedboat that I was able to use and we got up to 100 mph - scary stuff. The temperatures at the river were 106 plus. I also got to Palm Springs and went up on the cable car into the mountains. It was 110 on the ground, so a relief to get some height and get to a cooler 80 at the top.

From there I travelled up to San Fransisco. I am staying with my cousin here, and friends arrive on Saturday that I join. We have been to Sacramento - which is the state capital of California. I had a fascinating tour of the Capitol building, which looks like the one in Washington with a big dome. The senate part of the house is all in red, and the representatives side all green, a left over from our Houses of Parliament. In the older part of Sacramento, it is like a wild west town. There are old buildings, just like in western films, and you look as though you should be getting off a horse, not out of a car. They have steam trains about, and paddle steamers, and saloons. All great stuff.

I spent the day in San Fransisco yesterday. What a beautiful city. Went over the Golden Gate Bridge, and all around the bay area. Had a beautiful fish meal in a restaurant that overlooked the Golden Gate bridge, and Alcatraz.

I went hiking in a nearby mountain range today, and tomorrow visit an old gold mining town. On Saturday I join my friends from England, and we spend more time in San F, before leaving for Yosemite on Tuesday.

21st July 2001

David and Jim joined me for a fortnight. We spent a couple of days in San Francisco. They were desperate not to be jet-lagged, and asked me to keep them awake. I took them on a 5 mile walk in the city, and half way over the Golden Gate Bridge to keep them awake. The hostel, although busy, was in a beautiful location in San Fran, overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz. We took a tour to Alcatraz. Al Capone was incarcerated there, and of course the Birdman. It seems he was not as sweet as the Burt Lancaster character in the film - quite obnoxious in fact. You could go inside the cells - they were bigger than the ones I saw on Robben Island last autumn, and they each had their own toilet and hand basin, and so really, fairly luxurious compared to slopping out in most prisons in the UK today. They operated the doors, which all open together and then slam shut. They were the first of their kind, and that is where the name the "slammer" comes from. The tour was so good - you listened through headsets, and walked in the direction they told you. It had a good narrator, but also, sounds of the prison in the background, and they spoke to former inmates and prison officers. It was a super view of San Fran as well from the island.

We got a boat trip down to under the Golden Gate Bridge, and we went into Chinatown to have a meal. We went on the trams. Jim is a keen cyclist, so we cycled one day. Can you imagine - cycling in a city with 53 hills! We went over to the Marin Headlands. It is beautiful scenery over there, but so hilly. The guys soon outstripped me, and I was walking with the bike, huffing and puffing up and down various hills. It was a good day though.

We went to Yosemite for a week. We met bears. Thank goodness that was on the last day, or I think I wouldn't have gone walking at all if it had happened on the first. The Yosemite Park is huge, and it has enormous granite structures in it. We were unfortunate, in that there was a heatwave, and we were walking for the first part in temperatures of 100 degrees plus. That really hampered us, and we couldn't walk the distances we usually would. We did one walk, to the top of Yosemite Falls. Well, I was evaporating in the heat. And I was so disappointed, when we finally made it there (the book said half a day, it took us 8 hours!), the view was very indifferent. There are buses inside Yosemite, so once you reach the park, it is free on the buses to different points, and they all go to the different trail heads. It was some spectacular scenery. Looking down from the top of high granite rocks, onto the l! ong valley floor beneath. We met some nice people at the hostel. They had a nice bar/restaurant at the hostel. Unfortunately, the YHAs in the US do not allow you to consume your own alcohol. However, the Yosemite Hostel was only part YHA, and part private. So as there was no YHA sign on our dorm, or on the part outside the kitchen, we decided to drink bottles of beer there without being kicked out. The bear incident really did frighten me, in fact, I don't remember being frightened that way at all in my life. We were on a standard walk, from a walk book - so extremely well travelled by walkers. We reached our first point, and saw a deer there. We went onto the second point, and it was extremely hot again, and I was sweating buckets. Jim had made a curry the night before, with my cousin's vindaloo paste, which was working it's way through my system, I had used buckets of deodorant as it was so hot. They tell! you in the books to keep downwind of the bears if you spot them, so they don't get your scent. I must have smelled like a sweaty punkawallah on that day. Jim was first, David in the middle and me last. Jim didn't see it, but as Dave pointed to the right I had also spotted a bear. It was huge. All three of us stopped dead still. It was no more than 50 feet to our right. It was rummaging about, and didn't seem interested in us. We turned and slowly and as silently as possible walked back the way we had come. Once we had gone a little way, we picked up the pace, and I indicated I was quite happy to run flat out if that was what they thought. However, we stopped, and looked around, and there seemed no indication that it was following us. We then continued back down the trail, deciding to abandon the walk, rather than try and get past it, and somewhat relieved started walking further back down the trail.&n! bsp; We heard a rustling noise, and I prayed it was the deer we had seen earlier. We stopped dead still again, and a small bear ran across the trail, about 100 feet ahead. Well, my heart was in my boots then. We had bear either side of the trail. Cubs are not good news, they usually have a hugely protective mother about nearby, who will charge if she feels her young is threatened. We stood stock still, and waited, to see if any bears came. After a while they didn't, so we decided to pick up small stones to throw if we encountered one, and picked up big ones to smash together to make noise. We then started walking down the trail, shouting, and smashing the big stones. I was terrified. Thank goodness we got back to the car park without further incident.

From Yosemite we went down to the Pacific Coast, and then made our way back up to San Fran. On the way up, we went to Carmel, but didn't see Clint Eastwood. We stopped at the coast where elephant seals come up onto the beach. They are huge creatures, not the cute things with balls on their noses, but enormous things weighing tons. We saw some whales out in the ocean, and one of the hostels we stayed in was a lighthouse, although the fog had arrived by then, and there wasn't much of a view. We had chores to do at that hostel (another annoying feature that YHA in England don't have like the alcohol), and then just one last night at San Fran. We walked around the Golden Gate Park, and the guys then went off to Boston for their 3 days before going to England. Meantime, I went by Greyhound bus to Klamath, to see the Great Redwood National Park.

Travelling by Greyhound is proving to be an interesting experience. On the bus itself there are usually at least 2 people who would be classed as insane, and the Greyhound staff, with few exceptions, are unhelpful, hostile, unintelligent and generally have no clue that they work in a service industry for the public. I rang a Greyhound operator to ask about getting a bus from Canada to Niagara Falls later on in my trip. She asked me, "I'm from Texas ma'am, so I don't know where that is, can you tell me which state Niagara Falls is in, I've not heard of it" and generally this is the level one deals with.

Going to the toilet on a Greyhound is another interesting experience - I'll spare you the details, but is is to be avoided if at all possible. I find I am certainly seeing life travelling Greyhound. My time in the Redwoods was great. I stayed in a hostel which was literally a stone's throw from the Pacific Ocean. It is at the Northern tip of California. It took 10 hours to get there from San Fran by Greyhound. It was very remote, the nearest grocery store was 2 1/2 miles away, so a 5 mile round trip. You go to sleep to the sound of the ocean lapping onto the shore - wonderful. I hooked up with some people and we hiked the area together, as well as lazing on the beach. The redwoods they have there are the tallest trees in the world. The groves are just packed with them. They are just amazing, you look up and up and up. I tried to take pictures, but you just get the bottom or the top - you just can't fit them all in. I took the Greyhound to Salem, Oregon. I met there with a couple I had met on my flight to the US from Spain. We had had a good chat on the plane, and they had said that they lived between the Great Redwood National Park and Seattle, and would be happy for me to stay with them. So I had emailed them and arranged two nights there. It was a good idea, as from Salem to Seattle tomorrow morning it is going to be 5 1/2 hours. They made me extremely welcome. The guy is called Randy and his wife is Robyn. I tell you the names, as you may see them on TV - see later in the email! We visited Salem today. We visited the capital building, as Salem is the capital of Oregon. It was beautiful, with a gold pioneer man on the roof. We saw the Senate and House of Representatives chambers, and it was super. Then we went to Portland, which is the big city in Oregon. I had asked Robyn at lunch how she had met Randy, and she laughed and said! it was quite a long story, and she would tell me on the way to Portland. Well, it was an amazing tale that unfolded. I will briefly condense this to : 10 years ago, Randy and his then wife went on holiday with his two children, and whilst abseiling, Randy's wife plummeted to her death. There then followed an investigation, which resulted in Randy being charged with murder, and standing trial. Although not convicted of murder, he was convicted of a much lesser offence (which seemed to amount to negligently failing to assist someone in peril or some such), and went to prison for 2 years. For the first 18 months of their marriage she was involved with the murder trial and he was then in prison. The prosecutor was so dogmatic, he has failed to get over not having the conviction of murder. Apparently the Discovery Channel which you can get on cable or satelite TV in the UK, are currently running a series regarding prosecutions, and a whole programme is devoted to their story. So, I appear to be ! in the home of a convicted felon if not murderer. But anyway, they are very nice people, have shown every hospitality to me, and you can only take as you find.

4th September 2001

Just to let you know I've spent a super month in Canada. I went around British Columbia, and spent time on Vancouver Island with my cousin. Then we headed through the Okanagan Valley, which is a lot like the Lake District, and ended up in the Rockies for two weeks. Did some marvellous hikes there, and stayed at some rather rustic hostels - no running water or flushing toilets, but internet access .....Maligne Canyon actually had bears in the kitchen a few nights before I arrived! Tried horse riding for the first time - couldn't walk for a day afterwards. Flew into Toronto - what a city - old and new buildings blended together and tremendous atmosphere and entertainment districts. Have spent a couple of days in the Niagara region. Thought the falls might not be up to much, after seeing Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe - but they have their own special magic - and I got very wet on the Maid in the Mist tour.

I've learned the rights and wrongs of burping in Korea (I'm gathering heaps of useful info on this trip), so will be glad to bring you up to speed on that if ever you need it.

23rd November 2001: Postcard from Chile Back on the road after interlude with my brother and a broken foot.

I went to Washington DC - empty of tourists. Loved the sights, but felt threatened in the city - first time anywhere that I´ve felt that. The HI hostel was a disappointment - found after 3 nights there that I was being eaten by bed bugs, and they didn´t restrict the occupants to travellers - so a number of people with social problems or varying kinds, made it an interesting stay.

Onto Chile, was searched on all American Airline flights ¨randomly¨- as was everyone not holding a US passport. Took a flight out to Easter Island. Fantastic place - really is a Paradise. Spent 6 very happy days there - looking at big heads, and climbing volcanoes, as well as relaxing on white sand beach, and watching the native Polynesians perform erotic dances.

Travelling through Chile now, into their Lake District, which is not unlike ours, in that it is pouring with rain half the time, but beautiful scenery when the sun comes out. Bus journeys have improved from Greyhound. You can pick different types of buses here, and I took something called a semi-cama out from Santiago - a mid price selection. It was amazing - two drivers and a personal attendant. He came round, and I thought was taking orders for tea or coffee, and he handed me a bingo board. Then it was eyes down for a full casa, as the passengers joined in enthusiastically. I was concentrating hard on the numbers being called, determined not to shout even if I thought I´d got it, as I was bound to have misheard. My helpful neighbour was having none of it though, and watched my board as well as his, and got very excited when I had only one number left. It was a night time ride, and the attendant comes along, and eases your chair into the horizontal position, with much ¨Permisso¨ as he does so - wonderful stuff.

The food is great, and I´ve found this drink called Pisco Sour which is fantastic value in terms of how much of it you need to get totally plastered. Out until 4 am doing tango and salso - it´s really fantastic here.

4th February 2002: Postcard from New Zealand

Returned to Argentina after sorting out mum's affairs, and caught a plane up to Iguacu Falls on the Brazil/Argentina border. Breathtaking - simply stunning.

Returned to Buenos Aires in the middle of riots. Hostel manager took me on a tour of the sights, including water cannon, tanks and troops at the Parliament building. He also took me to a tango club - yet more erotic dancing to view.

Christmas and New Year in Ecuador. Made the mistake when booking the trip of thinking Ecuador, being on the equator, would be hot. Big mistake - rainy and cloudy most of the time. Had a taste of guinea pig - bit like rabbit, and learned a lot about the culture of the country. New Years Eve in Banos was memorable. The children make effigies of bad people and collect money from the public, a bit like penny for the guy. There were a number of Bin Laden lookalikes on display. Then at midnight, they are placed into the road intersections and torched. The locals looked on as my group joined hands for Auld Lang Syne, and as we then blew up balloons, collected dozens of children who looked as though their whole world had come alive by receiving one.

Seven days on the Galapagos were amazing. Tried snorkelling for the first time and really loved it - a whole new world opened up to me. Got into a bit of a panic with a sea lion, but the wildlife just has to be seen to be believed. You don't need a telephoto lens, as you are literally stepping over the animals. Turtles, giant tortoises, iguanas, sealions, blue footed boobies, frigate birds, pelicans, penguins - an amazing trip.

Went on to New Zealand, and spent 3 weeks on the North Island. Cannot believe how similar to England it is! Have just crossed over into the South Island, and arriving at Christchurch, feel as though I am back home in Cambridge; they are even punting down the river. Having a wonderful time, Jane

15th March 2002: Postcard from Australia

Spent 3 weeks on South Island New Zealand. Had the most wonderful time. The scenery there is so spectacular. The days I visited Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound were just perfect - blue skies, on a boat that meandered down the fjords, with the tall mountains on either side - just wonderful. I visited Mount Cook and took a helicopter ride over the region, landing up in the mountains. Felt this was a bit of a cheat and I should have climbed - but it was a great experience. The lakes and mountains of the South Island were just breathtaking - sort of Lake District and Scotland all in one, and on a much bigger scale. Went on a wine tour as you would expect - another memorable day.

Crossed over to Oz. Spent a week in Sydney, beautiful harbour, and a visit to the Opera House. Off to the Blue Mountains with their strange blue haze hanging over them, and then travelled to Ayers Rock. The aborigines don't want you to climb it, which seemed a good excuse not to hike up there in burning heat. Saw the sunrise over it, and the sunset bringing mauves and reds to the sky around it - remarkable. Also visited an observatory and looked through a telescope for the first time. What a difference when you look at the sky in the middle of absolutely nowhere with no light pollution! The Milky Way was so clear. Found where the Southern Cross is, and saw Jupiter and 3 of her moons, and Saturn, through the telescope.

Then off to the Great Barrier Reef. Couldn't find the courage to scuba dive, but went snorkelling. Amazing corals and fish - just could not believe the varieties and colours. Cuddled a koala (they are so, so cute), and stroked kangaroos (also ate one - not keen, tasted a bit like rabbit to me). Now I'm in Melbourne, which is very different from the Melbourn I live in. Remarkably, one of my lodgers in my home is from here, and I'm staying at his home while he is in mine. Off to see Mamma Mia tonight - love going round this city - trams everywhere, trains, buses, and a really easy system to follow.

I leave for Singapore on Monday, and then into Nepal/Bhutan, and across China...

29th May 2002: The Final Leg...

So out from Down Under, and back up over. Into Singapore and Singapore Slings in Raffles. Then onto Nepal - can't face Indian food for a month. Lots of temples, monkeys, and filth.

Into Bhutan - most gorgeous men on the planet and among the friendliest people - still so innocent. But the west is arriving there - took tea with some monks, who had two giant size posters for Michael Jackson on their wall and they were wearing Reeboks under their habits ...

Three days trekking in the Himalayas and a flight round Everest. Then off to Hong Kong and Macau, before walking the Great Wall of China for 10 days. Chinese were surprising - great sense of humour, and a nation of gigglers - not what I had thought at all. Can't face Chinese food for 3 months, and will never eat noodles again. Terracotta Army was simply amazing.

Then 4 days in Rome - soaking up the atmosphere in the Colusseum and Forums, and enjoying the Vatican.

And so - back to the UK - a week in the Lake District to ease myself in gently. It feels so strange to be back here - everything is SO expensive - I was having a huge Chinese meal with beer for £1.50 only a fortnight ago.

So - the facts the travel guides don't give you?

• Handsomest men - Bhutan
• Most charming men - Chile
• Remotest place - Easter Island
• Most amazing place - Iguazu Falls
• Favourite country - New Zealand
• Worst toilets - India/Nepal
• Best wildlife - Galapagos
• Scariest moment - tie for the top - meeting a bear in Yosemite and arriving in Buenos Aires in middle of rioting
• Least safe place visited - Washington DC

So, now it's back to the practice. So if you want to email me, and I would really, really like to go for a drink down the pub with anyone local as soon as possible!

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