CYHA NEWS

The Last Eight Munros - Back-packing, Beanfeasts & Beer

Little has gone according to plan for me in 2001 but finally the sun was set to shine again at least for a week. The trip was put together in less than a week after the vital paths were opened and a large high-pressure area was moving in just for us. It was ideal that we were staying with the Kodak group in Glengarry.

Sunday started grey and drizzly, we were up long before the alarm at 06:30 making sure we had everything. It took nearly an hour to drive the 19 miles to Kinlochourn, this was not a road for the faint-hearted. Once at the village (2 buildings) we hoisted our 25 kg packs onto our shoulders. We took our time over the 12 km walk to Barrisdale, our base camp. The skies were brightening and the scenery was glorious. With Gerry and his camera you understand why we it took more than 4 hours.

The nearby bothy, had running water, and toilets! Two of them no less, but the emphasis was on quantity not quality. We chilled out for 8 hours in the most serenely beautiful place I've ever been to. The food each night consisted of some flavour of beanfeast (if there is one) with pasta or noodles. I was concerned that Gerry's meal in the Invergarry hotel had been veg curry and I was going to share my tent with him for 3 nights. By the end of 3 days of camping food were considering fitting extra guy-ropes.

Monday dawned dry and calm although it was a grey start as we set off for Ladhar Bheinn (pronounced Larven) at around 07.30 but the cloud had thinned and lifted by the time we reached the pass of Mam Barrisdale. This was an easy climb but the area is not called The Rough Bounds of Knoydart for nothing. We were soon into tough going over rough grass and small knolls. The real obstacle proved to be the east face of Stob a' Chearcaill. This peak was more like something on Skye but it was not a climb over firm rock. This was an ascent of wet grass, slippery slabs and compacted mud but we were rewarded with fine views of the great horseshoe of the mountain. It wasn't quite the sunny day that was promised with cloud obscuring the summit now and then. Despite this it was a most dramatic, if physically demanding walk along the ridge to the summit of Ladhar Bheinn (1020 m).

We were unlucky not to have a view from the top but after passing the north top the clouds began to clear to reveal the most amazing views. In no hurry, we paused long at the foot of Coire Dhorrcail with the great cliffs of the mountain surrounding us. It was now almost clear and really quite hot, a taste of even better things to come. We could really relax and enjoy our glorious camp.

Tuesday started at 05:30 and we opened the tent to reveal a perfect clear morning. I banned Gerry from lighting his stove before 6 am since its imitation of a Chinook helicopter could wake the dead not to mention the occupants of the other tents surrounding. We set out for Mam Barrisdale as before but turned left this time and began the diagonal ascent across the south face of Luinne Bheinn. It was a steep climb up the last 200 m but we reached the summit ridge around 09.30. We were now 939 m above our glorious campsite and time to get a message home to say we were OK, how nice for me to receive unexpected good wishes too. Setting out on the long trek to Meall Buidhe (946 m) Gerry asked me "Where's the next one, not that over there?" "Yeah that one" I replied casually. It was 4 km and another 500 m of ascent along a very rough ridge and there were several minor summits in the way. What did it matter? We had all day and every reason to take our time. We arrived in time for lunch and I left a message on Dave's mobile so he could make everyone jealous at the YHA meet. We lazed about in the hot sun under a few fluffy clouds. It was a long and steep descent down the north ridge, dodging many crags. It wasn't the sort of descent I'd like to make in winter or really wet weather. The circuit encloses Coire Odhair and this is one of the wildest and roughest places I've seen. We paused to chill out by the most delightful clear stream and refilled our water supplies for the slog back up to Mam Barrisdale. As we descended from the pass the views across Loch Hourn to Beinn Sgritheall were quite breathtaking.

Wednesday was even hotter and we were glad just to be walking out again. What a glorious walk it was and we spent the rest of the day chilling out by Loch Quoich and enjoying the delights of Glengarry, after all, this was a rest day.

Dawn Thursday: The hills across Loch Garry were standing out of the mist into the clear blue sky, this was set to be a long, hot day. It was a 40 mile drive to Glendessary with the last 22 along a very narrow road along the north shore of Loch Arkaig. Some drive it was too on a glorious morning with the water like a mirror. If you have the stamina this is one of the best long days in the hills. It also takes some fortitude to drive along this single-track road with few passing places and an effective limit of 20 mph lest your car's exhaust gets too friendly with the tarmac. The road just ends at the end of the loch and even at 8 am parking was in short supply.

It was a 3-hour march along the glorious Glendessary and a sun hat and a thick layer of factor 25 were already essential. We had 2L water capacity each and took every opportunity to fill up from streams. The first Munro, Sgurr nan Coirechan (953 m) involved the ascent of the south ridge, an unrelenting 750 m climb. Now, I like these continuous steep slopes that gain height quickly but pacing one's self and judging progress is hard with no reference points or natural places at which to take a break. I ascended at such a pace that we could both walk for 25 mins then have a 5 min break for rest and water. This is a very good way of breaking a tough climb into smaller chunks and this worked well on this occasion and we gained the summit in 3 such stints.

This was the finest of view points especially along the length of Loch Quoich and over Sgurr Mor and Gairich towards Glen Garry, to the south lay the mountains of Glenfinnan and the ridge itself was laid out before us to the west with Knoydart beyond. I could not resist a call to work and it was as if we were talking from adjacent offices, the one at my end had a better view and a much brighter outlook. This chain of mountains has very much the character of the rough bounds of Knoydart itself. This is no place for the unfit, in addition to the 3 Munros there are many smaller summits and little knolls. The rocky terrain means that it is very much a case of two steps up and one down, even the descents have climbing in them.

The second Munro, Garbh Chioch Mhor (1013 m) took another two hours to climb as our earlier exertions and the heat took their toll. It was often hard to admire the view, as careful foot placement was required. The final summit Sgurr na Ciche (1040 m, peak of the breast) was a large conical peak (funnily enough). It was an awesome traverse above daunting crags and past giant boulders. The pass between these two peaks is known as Feadan na Ciche, literally 'The whistler of the Breast' (although some might call it 'The Cleavage') is normally one of the windiest (and wettest) places in Britain but today it just provided a welcome cool breeze. The 200 m ascent of Sgurr na Ciche turned out to be easier than expected as we found second wind, presumably from Kodak group catering. It was now 4:30 and time to get a message to base that we were to be expected to return around 10 pm.

From the col we descended south into Glendessary down the spectacular narrow defile of Feadan na Ciche with some interesting scrambling in places. This is serious country!

It was a 12 km walk and Gerry will have to admit to dying on his feet at times but we kept each other going. The scenery stirred the emotions and took our mind of the tiredness. We looked back on the setting sun at the end of a 12 hr walk but we will both look back many more times over the years to come. The drive home was glorious too on a balmy evening and Gerry's friends saved us plenty to eat, just as well, breakfast had been 16 hrs ago!

For the rest of the week I enjoyed the remaining good weather to climb some of the Munros I didn't get a view from the first time before the others arrived with the rain. The last two summits at the end of the second week were a bit of an anticlimax in terms of weather although it only rained on the last one contrary to last month's newsletter. The final hill had to be an easy one so I'm sorry for those who were so kind in join me it if was one of the least interesting. That weather is certainly atypical of my Munro experience having had a view from 3 out of 4 but I have much more to remember the last day by.

Tom

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